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Three Kings Day in Spain is bigger than Xmas Day. Every town has its own cavalcade the day before to enact the arrival of the kings. In Barcelona, the three kings come to the port on ship, and then parade around the city center. We decided to go to Vilafranca this year since Mauricio was playing with a group of street musicians. We were already familiar with Vilafranca del Penedes, approximately one hour west of Barcelona, as we had stayed there for a week while waiting for our apartment to become available. We picked a location to wait for the cavalcade (and Mauricio!) and since we had gotten there early enough, we were in the front row. All the kids lined up with plastic bags to catch the candy the kings would throw. After a long time, the motorcade finally came around the corner, announcing the arrival. Mauricio and the troupe of musicians were at the front. Isabel was ecstatic to see her father as part of the spectacle.
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Soon after, the first king arrived in his huge float, pulled by a John Deere tractor. I was expecting three guys walking on foot, throwing candy. What was I thinking? The first few groups of musicians played traditional music and carols. The floats were blaring classical music, such as Bach. Meanwhile, the King and his pages threw candy out into the crowds. People were scattering all over the ground fighting over the candy. After the Kings passed, we ducked out of the crowd (not easy!) and tried to find the beginning of the procession to meet up with Mauricio again. Since I knew the town, it wasn't that difficult. But first we walked through the main streets, packed with people buying presents for the next day. Then we ended up by the Cathedral, where a charming arts & crafts fair was held. The plaza was lit with warm lights and the bells were ringing out. It was a beautiful moment. Further on down, we actually came upon an ice skating rink set up in the middle of another plaza!
Finally figured out where to meet up with the gang. We walked a few blocks with the group, as there weren't many people lining up the streets at this point toward the end. I believe they actually ended it sooner since there weren't any people waiting further on. Mauricio got on the bus trailing the procession to go back to the beginning and get his stuff. We were to meet at the train station in 20 minutes to catch the 9:07 pm (that's 21:07 for us) train back to Barcelona. We had to dash back through the crowds dispersing in the main square and the flurry of shoppers. Tired and hungry — but happy — we all made it in time.
See the very short video (difficult to videotape, snap photos, and pay attention to Isabel in her stroller while darting all the people scrambling for candy!)
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Top: Details from the cavalcade. Bottom left: Mauricio's street musician group passing along. As usual, Mauricio's head is hidden behind the drum! Bottom right: Isabel looks for her father, with her grandmother Grazie holding her.
The next day, we bought a Roscon de Reyes, a traditional ringed cake, in either marzipan or cream. The pieces are cut up, and whoever gets the king, gets to wear the crown. Whoever gets the dried fava bean has to pay for the cake! Mauricio got the fava bean, which worked out since he was the one who laid out the cash for it anyway. Isabel made off with the crown before we sliced the first piece, but I was the one who ended up with the king. I was surprised that it was a nice ceramic piece, not a plastic thing.