Tuesday, January 30, 2007

Birthday in Tarragona

Yesterday was Isabel's 2nd birthday! We spent the day in Tarragona, about an hour west of Barcelona, known for its Roman ruins and charming medieval town center. The day started out with balloons and Isabel appeared on TV! I had sent in her picture for the playhouse disney channel "Es mi cumpleaño" presentation. Here are some snapshots of the day.

There were so many orange trees near the cathedral, but we couldn't quite reach any, not even by lifting Isabel, who also tried to reach for some!



The Devils in Gracia

Gracia, January 27 - After going to so many festivals outside of Barcelona, we finally got to witness it in our very own neighborhood last Saturday. Our friends came from out of town to play and attend the Festival of Saint Anthony in Gracia – Mallorca style. There is a huge population of Mallorquis here in Gracia such that their traditions have become adopted and entrenched here.

We came upon the parade of devils and the dragon awash in fireworks and flames on our way to Plaça Virreina. It was pretty wild as the devils chased after the spectators with the sparklers (including me, in the midst of videotaping!). We got a glimpse of the giants and the cabezons (the big heads), and saw them again in the plaza. What was distinct about this event from the others is that usually the event is held during the day. It was fun to see the fireworks at night.

At the plaza, the trabucaires shot their muskets in the air, but it was brief; not as long as in Centelles! Then we caught up with my friend Jordi who was in one of the groups of musicians. We ended up at one of the street bonfires throughout the neighborhood where the musicians and neighbors cook and eat sausages in the street, and sing and dance.

Later on, it was back to the plaza around midnight where a Mallorqui band played traditional and popular music while everyone danced with castanets.





Wednesday, January 17, 2007

Els Tres Tombs

Valls, January 14, 2007
On Sunday we went to our friend's town to see the traditional Els Tres Tombs festival. Several towns celebrate this event, but Valls has one of the biggest. Townsfolk traditionally brought the animals to be blessed by Saint Anthony, and toured around the town three times in a parade (tombs means tour in Catalan). Today we only saw horses and donkeys, although I'm told sometimes sheep and goats and more are brought.

The parade started with single riders (some dressed traditionally or Andalusian style) or in school groups. Then came the horses and carts, half-size horses, some donkeys. Towards the end, the wagon trains, pulled by six to eight horses, paraded by. As seen by the advertisements, these seemed to belong to local restaurants.

See the video.







Modern-day mule:

Saturday, January 06, 2007

Tres Reis

Three Kings Day in Spain is bigger than Xmas Day. Every town has its own cavalcade the day before to enact the arrival of the kings. In Barcelona, the three kings come to the port on ship, and then parade around the city center. We decided to go to Vilafranca this year since Mauricio was playing with a group of street musicians. We were already familiar with Vilafranca del Penedes, approximately one hour west of Barcelona, as we had stayed there for a week while waiting for our apartment to become available. We picked a location to wait for the cavalcade (and Mauricio!) and since we had gotten there early enough, we were in the front row. All the kids lined up with plastic bags to catch the candy the kings would throw. After a long time, the motorcade finally came around the corner, announcing the arrival. Mauricio and the troupe of musicians were at the front. Isabel was ecstatic to see her father as part of the spectacle.

Soon after, the first king arrived in his huge float, pulled by a John Deere tractor. I was expecting three guys walking on foot, throwing candy. What was I thinking? The first few groups of musicians played traditional music and carols. The floats were blaring classical music, such as Bach. Meanwhile, the King and his pages threw candy out into the crowds. People were scattering all over the ground fighting over the candy. After the Kings passed, we ducked out of the crowd (not easy!) and tried to find the beginning of the procession to meet up with Mauricio again. Since I knew the town, it wasn't that difficult. But first we walked through the main streets, packed with people buying presents for the next day. Then we ended up by the Cathedral, where a charming arts & crafts fair was held. The plaza was lit with warm lights and the bells were ringing out. It was a beautiful moment. Further on down, we actually came upon an ice skating rink set up in the middle of another plaza!

Finally figured out where to meet up with the gang. We walked a few blocks with the group, as there weren't many people lining up the streets at this point toward the end. I believe they actually ended it sooner since there weren't any people waiting further on. Mauricio got on the bus trailing the procession to go back to the beginning and get his stuff. We were to meet at the train station in 20 minutes to catch the 9:07 pm (that's 21:07 for us) train back to Barcelona. We had to dash back through the crowds dispersing in the main square and the flurry of shoppers. Tired and hungry — but happy — we all made it in time.

See the very short video (difficult to videotape, snap photos, and pay attention to Isabel in her stroller while darting all the people scrambling for candy!)



Top: Details from the cavalcade. Bottom left: Mauricio's street musician group passing along. As usual, Mauricio's head is hidden behind the drum! Bottom right: Isabel looks for her father, with her grandmother Grazie holding her.

The next day, we bought a Roscon de Reyes, a traditional ringed cake, in either marzipan or cream. The pieces are cut up, and whoever gets the king, gets to wear the crown. Whoever gets the dried fava bean has to pay for the cake! Mauricio got the fava bean, which worked out since he was the one who laid out the cash for it anyway. Isabel made off with the crown before we sliced the first piece, but I was the one who ended up with the king. I was surprised that it was a nice ceramic piece, not a plastic thing.